Item | N·m |
Alternator and ignition system | |
Idler pulley bolt | 44 ± 8 |
Auto tensioner | 22 ± 4 |
Crankshaft pulley centre bolt | 210, 0 then 210 |
Alternator nut | 44 ± 10 |
Alternator bolt | 44 ± 10 |
Ignition coil bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Spark plug | 25 ± 5 |
Accessory bracket bolt | 44 ± 8 |
Throttle body | |
Vacuum pipe assembly bolt | 11 ± 1 |
Throttle body bolt | 9.5 ± 2.5 |
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor screw | 4.0 ± 1.0 |
Solenoid valve screw | 4.0 ± 1.0 |
Water pipe bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Inlet manifold and fuel system | |
Oil level gauge guide bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Injector protector rear bolt | 3.5 ± 1.5 then 20 ± 2 |
Delivery pipe bolt | 3.5 ± 1.5 then 20 ± 2 |
Inlet manifold bolt and nut | 3.5 ± 1.5 then 20 ± 2 |
Inlet manifold stay bolt | 20 ± 2 |
Inlet manifold stay B bolt | 20 ± 2 |
Inlet manifold stay C bolt | 20 ± 2 |
Injector protector front bolt | 3.5 ± 1.5 then 20 ± 2 |
Detonation sensor bolt | 20 ± 2 |
Oil pressure switch | 10 ± 2 |
Exhaust manifold | |
Exhaust manifold cover bolt | 8.0 ± 2.0 |
Exhaust manifold nut | 49 ± 5 |
Exhaust manifold bracket bolt (Exhaust manifold side) | 56 ± 8 |
Exhaust manifold bracket bolt (Cylinder block side) | 41 ± 10 |
Crank angle sensor bolt | 11 ± 1 |
Crank angle sensor cover bolt | 11 ± 1 |
Oxygen sensor | 44 ± 5 |
Water hose and pipe | |
Water inlet fitting bolt | 24 ± 3 |
Water outlet fitting bolt | 24 ± 3 |
Thermostat housing bolt | 24 ± 3 |
Engine hanger bolt | 28 ± 8 |
Coolant temperature sensor | 30 ± 9 |
Water pump bolt | 24 ± 3 |
Water pipe nut | 24 ± 3 |
Camshaft position sensor | 11 ± 1 |
Oil pan and timing chain case | |
Cylinder head cover bolt | 3.0 ± 1.0 then 5.5 ± 0.5 |
Timing chain case bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Timing chain case bolt | 13 ± 1 |
Timing chain case bolt | 24 ± 4 |
Oil pan bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Oil pan bolt | 31 ± 2 |
Air compressor bracket bolt | 23 ± 6 |
Oil drain plug | 39 ± 5 |
Oil filter | 14 ± 2 |
PCV valve | 2.5 ± 0.4 |
Engine support bracket assembly washer bolt | 48 ± 6 |
Timing chain | |
Inlet V.V.T. sprocket bolt | 59 ± 5 |
Exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt | 59 ± 5 |
Timing chain tensioner bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Tensioner lever bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Timing chain guide bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Camshaft | |
Oil feeder control valve (OCV) bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Camshaft bearing cap bolt | 12 ± 1 |
Front camshaft bearing cap bolt | 17 ± 3 then 30 ± 2 |
Cylinder head and valves | |
Cylinder head bolt | 35 ± 2, +90° then +90° |
Oil pump chain <4B11> | |
Drive plate bolt | 40 then 130 |
Oil pump case bolt | 26 ± 2 |
Oil pump sprocket bolt | 23 ± 2 |
Oil pump tensioner lever bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Oil pump chain guide bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Ladder frame bolt | 24 ± 2 |
Balancer chain <4B12> | |
Drive plate bolt | 40 then 130 |
Balancer shaft module bolt | 20, 44, 0, 20 then +135° |
Balancer shaft chain tensioner bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Lever tensioner bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Balancer shaft chain guide bolt | 10 ± 2 |
Ladder frame bolt | 24 ± 2 |
Piston and connecting rod | |
Connecting rod cap bolt | 5.0, 20 then +90° |
Crankshaft and cylinder block | |
Crankshaft sensing ring bolt | 11 ± 1 |
Bearing cap bolt | 26.5 ± 2.0 then +45° |
Torque wrench capable of 10-90 lb.-ft. Breaker bar- OEM caliper bolt and wheel removal 7mm socket- Caliper bridge bolt 14mm socket- Banjo bolt on caliper end of brake line 19mm socket- OEM caliper bolt removal 21mm socket- Wheel lug nuts 5mm hex key wrench/socket- Caliper bridge bolt 8mm hex key wrench/socket- Bolt, caliper to bracket. Location: Front Driver And Passenger Side Recommended Use: Street Performance Condition: Remanufactured Warranty: 90-day / 3000-mile Powerstop limited warranty Quantity Sold: 2-Wheel Set Series: Performance Series Type: Caliper & Hardware Notes: Includes brackets(s) Prop 65 Warning:. WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Arsenic.
Mitsubishi Lancer Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads on an 8th generation 2008 to 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer sedan with pictures.
Main Menu |
Mitsubishi Lancer Front Caliper Guide Bolt Torque Chart
2015 Lancer Front Wheel | Pull Off Plastic Wheel Cover | Hub Cap Removed |
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the eighth generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & 2015) Mitsubishi Lancer in changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other Mitsubishi vehicles such as the Mirage, Lancer Evolution ('Evo'), Outlander, 3000GT, Diamante, Eclipse, Endeavor, Galant, Montero, ASX, Triton L200 and Raider may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this front brake job include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 14mm socket, a 3/8' drive ratcheting wrench, a 'C' or 'F' clamp and a tube of synthetic brake parts lubricant grease. A few compatible sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC866, Akebono ACT866, Dura International BP866 C, Bosch BP866, Centric 105.0866, Raybestos SGD866C, ACDelco 14D866CH, Monroe CX866 and Carquest Wearever Ceramic PXD866H. | ||
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts | Raise Front of Vehicle | Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts |
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking brake, and chock the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving. Gently pull off the plastic wheel cover or 'hub cap' from the front wheels. Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron. Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands. Spin off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place. | ||
5 Lug Nuts Removed | Front Rotor & Bracket | Front Brake Caliper |
Pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake rotor, bracket, caliper and suspension. The caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side of the caliper facing in towards the engine. | ||
Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt | Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt | Spin Out Caliper Bolt |
Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8' drive ratcheting wrench. How do i see my storage on mac. Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle). | ||
Caliper Bolt / Slider Pin | Remove Lower Bolt / Pin | 2 Caliper Bolts / Slider Pins |
The caliper bolts also act as the caliper slider pins. Spin out the upper and lower caliper bolts / slider pins and set them aside in a safe place. | ||
Pull Off Brake Caliper | Rest Caliper On Suspension | Remove Old Outer Pad |
Carefully pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and rest it on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord. | ||
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad | Replace Pad Abutment Clips | Attach 'F' Clamp |
Remove the old brake pads from the bracket and make a mental note of where the wear bar or 'squeal' bar is located on the old pads. On this 2015 Lancer, the wear bar was situated at the top of the inner brake pad. I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC866brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. If your new set of front brake pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old pad abutment or 'anti-rattle' clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket before pushing the new ones in to place. In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed backwards. Attach the 'F' clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. | ||
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap | Compress Back Caliper Piston | Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the hose when you compress the piston. Slowly turn the 'C' or 'F' clamp handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the piston until it is almost flush with its rubber dust boot. Repeatedly check the level in the reservoir while you are compressing the piston to make sure it doesn't over flow. Download internet browser for mac. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damaged painted surfaces. Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot that surrounds the piston. Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air). Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled. Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads. If your Lancer previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors 'turned' (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. | ||
Install New Outer Pad | Wear Bar - Top New Inner Pad | Push Pads Against Rotor |
Install the new brake pads in to the bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top of the inner brake pad. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. | ||
Lower Caliper Over Pads | Spin Caliper Bolt / Pin | Re-Insert Lower Bolt / Pin |
Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you might need to compress the piston back a bit further. In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated. Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of each caliper bolt / slider pin. Re-insert the two caliper bolts / slider pins and rotate them a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. | ||
Tighten Upper Caliper Bolt | Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt | Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) to just past hand tight or about 29 lb-ft of torque. Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt. | ||
Replace Front Wheel | Spin On 5 Lug Nuts | Slightly Tighten Clockwise |
Push on the front wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction. Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a 'star' or 'criss cross' pattern with the tire iron. | ||
Lower Car From Stands | Torque Lug Nuts 73 lb-ft | Push On Wheel Cover |
Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight. It would be best to use a torque wrench to make sure that the lug nuts are properly tightened. The Lancer owner's manual specifies that the lug nuts should be tightened to about 73 lb-ft of torque. Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid. To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or 'panic' stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight. For more, check out my other 2008-2015 Mitsubishi Lancer DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
Torque wrench capable of 10-90 lb.-ft. Breaker bar- OEM caliper bolt and wheel removal 7mm socket- Caliper bridge bolt 14mm socket- Banjo bolt on caliper end of brake line 19mm socket- OEM caliper bolt removal 21mm socket- Wheel lug nuts 5mm hex key wrench/socket- Caliper bridge bolt 8mm hex key wrench/socket- Bolt, caliper to bracket. Location: Front Driver And Passenger Side Recommended Use: Street Performance Condition: Remanufactured Warranty: 90-day / 3000-mile Powerstop limited warranty Quantity Sold: 2-Wheel Set Series: Performance Series Type: Caliper & Hardware Notes: Includes brackets(s) Prop 65 Warning:. WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Arsenic.
Mitsubishi Lancer Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads on an 8th generation 2008 to 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer sedan with pictures.
Main Menu |
Mitsubishi Lancer Front Caliper Guide Bolt Torque Chart
2015 Lancer Front Wheel | Pull Off Plastic Wheel Cover | Hub Cap Removed |
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the eighth generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & 2015) Mitsubishi Lancer in changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other Mitsubishi vehicles such as the Mirage, Lancer Evolution ('Evo'), Outlander, 3000GT, Diamante, Eclipse, Endeavor, Galant, Montero, ASX, Triton L200 and Raider may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this front brake job include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 14mm socket, a 3/8' drive ratcheting wrench, a 'C' or 'F' clamp and a tube of synthetic brake parts lubricant grease. A few compatible sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC866, Akebono ACT866, Dura International BP866 C, Bosch BP866, Centric 105.0866, Raybestos SGD866C, ACDelco 14D866CH, Monroe CX866 and Carquest Wearever Ceramic PXD866H. | ||
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts | Raise Front of Vehicle | Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts |
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking brake, and chock the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving. Gently pull off the plastic wheel cover or 'hub cap' from the front wheels. Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron. Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands. Spin off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place. | ||
5 Lug Nuts Removed | Front Rotor & Bracket | Front Brake Caliper |
Pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake rotor, bracket, caliper and suspension. The caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side of the caliper facing in towards the engine. | ||
Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt | Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt | Spin Out Caliper Bolt |
Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8' drive ratcheting wrench. How do i see my storage on mac. Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle). | ||
Caliper Bolt / Slider Pin | Remove Lower Bolt / Pin | 2 Caliper Bolts / Slider Pins |
The caliper bolts also act as the caliper slider pins. Spin out the upper and lower caliper bolts / slider pins and set them aside in a safe place. | ||
Pull Off Brake Caliper | Rest Caliper On Suspension | Remove Old Outer Pad |
Carefully pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and rest it on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord. | ||
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad | Replace Pad Abutment Clips | Attach 'F' Clamp |
Remove the old brake pads from the bracket and make a mental note of where the wear bar or 'squeal' bar is located on the old pads. On this 2015 Lancer, the wear bar was situated at the top of the inner brake pad. I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC866brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. If your new set of front brake pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old pad abutment or 'anti-rattle' clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket before pushing the new ones in to place. In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed backwards. Attach the 'F' clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. | ||
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap | Compress Back Caliper Piston | Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the hose when you compress the piston. Slowly turn the 'C' or 'F' clamp handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the piston until it is almost flush with its rubber dust boot. Repeatedly check the level in the reservoir while you are compressing the piston to make sure it doesn't over flow. Download internet browser for mac. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damaged painted surfaces. Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot that surrounds the piston. Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air). Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled. Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads. If your Lancer previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors 'turned' (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. | ||
Install New Outer Pad | Wear Bar - Top New Inner Pad | Push Pads Against Rotor |
Install the new brake pads in to the bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top of the inner brake pad. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. | ||
Lower Caliper Over Pads | Spin Caliper Bolt / Pin | Re-Insert Lower Bolt / Pin |
Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you might need to compress the piston back a bit further. In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated. Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of each caliper bolt / slider pin. Re-insert the two caliper bolts / slider pins and rotate them a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. | ||
Tighten Upper Caliper Bolt | Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt | Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) to just past hand tight or about 29 lb-ft of torque. Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt. | ||
Replace Front Wheel | Spin On 5 Lug Nuts | Slightly Tighten Clockwise |
Push on the front wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction. Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a 'star' or 'criss cross' pattern with the tire iron. | ||
Lower Car From Stands | Torque Lug Nuts 73 lb-ft | Push On Wheel Cover |
Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight. It would be best to use a torque wrench to make sure that the lug nuts are properly tightened. The Lancer owner's manual specifies that the lug nuts should be tightened to about 73 lb-ft of torque. Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid. To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or 'panic' stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight. For more, check out my other 2008-2015 Mitsubishi Lancer DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
Mitsubishi Lancer Front Caliper Guide Bolt Torque Conversion
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Mitsubishi Lancer Front Caliper Guide Bolt Torque Calculator
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